Fjords and Feathers — The Wild Side Of Norway 

Norway had been calling to us for years, luring us with its dramatic fjords, diverse landscapes, and abundant birdlife. We finally embarked on our 16-day adventure, but nothing could have fully prepared us for the sheer grandeur of what we encountered. From the lush green lowlands of the south to the Arctic wilderness of Svalbard, every step of our journey was filled with sightings of remarkable bird species, breathtaking landscapes, and memorable wildlife encounters.

A Road Trip Through Norway’s Ever-Changing Landscapes

Our journey began in Oslo, where we explored the modern yet historic capital. Even in this urban setting, birdlife was abundant. The waterfront area surrounding the iconic Oslo Opera House was alive with gulls, their summer breeding plumage on full display. The Black-headed Gulls stood out with their rich brown head-masks and striking white eye-rings, while Herring Gulls and Great Black-backed Gulls towered over them, exuding an air of dominance. Many of these birds were ringed, reflecting ongoing conservation efforts in the region.

From Oslo, we embarked on an epic 2,500-kilometre road trip, experiencing the full spectrum of Norway’s landscapes. The scenery shifted dramatically within hours—from rolling green meadows to snow-covered peaks, from mirror-like fjords to thundering waterfalls.

As we drove through the famed Norefjell ski belt, the contrast was striking—snow still clung to the peaks, and lakes remained partially frozen, even as spring wildflowers began to bloom in the lower elevations. Along the way, we encountered some high-altitude bird species such as Fieldfare, Eurasian Jackdaw, and the tiny yet vocal Eurasian Blue Tit.

Chasing Waterfalls and Scaling Heights

One of the first major highlights of our journey was Hardangerfjord, Norway’s second-longest fjord, famous for its blossoming orchards. Among the fruit trees, Great Tits and Common Chaffinches flitted about, their songs adding melody to the already picturesque setting.

At Steinsdalsfossen waterfall, we had the thrilling experience of walking behind the cascading water, feeling the cool mist against our skin. While most tourists focused on the waterfall, we turned our eyes toward the skies, spotting White Wagtails darting around the rocky banks and Eurasian Blackbirds hopping through the undergrowth.

Male Mallard in Norway photographed by Kakul Paul, author at The Green Ogre
A majestic Mallard drake shows off its gaudy breeding colours
Tufted Duck in Norway, photographed by Kakul Paul, author at The Green Ogre
The attractive Tufted Duck breeds in Norway
European Red Squirrel photographed in Norway by Kakul Paul, author at The Green Ogre
Eurasian Red Squirrels look cuddly as they carouse in the treetops

A ride on the Flåm Railway, one of the world’s steepest standard gauge railways, took us through breathtaking landscapes—steep cliffs, winding rivers, and plunging waterfalls. The train stopped at several stations, allowing us glimpses of Eurasian Red Squirrels playing in the trees and a variety of bird species including European Robins and Goldeneyes.

Walking Through Ice and Time: The Briksdalsbreen Glacier Region

The drive towards the Briksdalsbreen Glacier, an arm of the massive Jostedalsbreen Glacier, was nothing short of breathtaking. Sunlight illuminated the snow-capped peaks, and pristine glacial lakes mirrored the sky’s deep blue. The short trek to the glacier meandered through lush meadows, past waterfalls that shimmered in the sunlight.

European Greenfinch photographed in Norway by Kakul Paul, author at The Green Ogre
European Greenfinch
European Robin in Norway. Photographed by Kakul Paul, author at The Green Ogre
European Robin
Fieldfare, photographed in Norway by Kakul Paul, authored at The Green Ogre
Fieldfare

The highlight was reaching the turquoise glacial lake at the base of the Briksdalsbreen Glacier, where we stood in awe of the sheer wall of ice. Its deep blue crevasses told a silent story of centuries gone by. In this high-altitude, crisp environment, bird sightings were a delight. White Wagtails and Eurasian Jackdaws scouted the rocky paths, while Fieldfares and Great Tits flitted about in the sparse greenery. Overhead, a Golden Eagle soared, scanning the land below.

The beauty of the glacier was undeniable, but so too was the reminder of its retreat—melting at an alarming rate due to climate change. We left with a newfound appreciation for nature’s grandeur and fragility.

The Majestic Geirangerfjord and Birding Along the Way

Our journey continued to the world-famous Geirangerfjord, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The drive to Dalsnibba, Europe’s highest fjord view by road, offered a mesmerising transformation of landscapes. One side of the road remained covered in ice and snow, while the other opened to lush green fjord-side valleys. The still-frozen Djupvatnet Lake reflected the clear blue sky, painting an ethereal scene.

Fjords of Norway

The fjord itself was an awe-inspiring sight, best experienced on an open-speed boat ride. We glided past the Seven Sisters Waterfall and its counterpart, The Suitor, learning the legend of their eternal courtship.

Birdlife thrived in this region. Eurasian Oystercatchers, with their striking black-and-white plumage and bright orange bills, picked their way along the rocky shores. Overhead, White-tailed Sea Eagles soared effortlessly, dominating the skies with their impressive wingspan.

A Birding Paradise on Runde Island

For birding enthusiasts, Runde Island is legendary. Home to one of Norway’s most important seabird colonies, it hosts thousands of breeding Atlantic Puffins, Northern Gannets, Razorbills, and Black-legged Kittiwakes during the summer months.

Parasitic Jaeger or Arctic Skua photographed in Norway by Kakul Paul, author at The Green Ogre
Arctic Skua or Parasitic Jaeger, a seabird skilled at kleptopiracy—mobbing other seabirds to make them drop their catch
Northern Gannet nests among the seabird colonies in Norway, photographed by Kakul Paul, author at The Green Ogre
Northern Gannets nest in colonies on the precipitous sea cliffs
Northern Gannet in Norway. Photographed by Kakul Paul, author at The Green Ogre
A Northern Gannet in flight

We reached Runde just in time for the evening bird return, an awe-inspiring spectacle where puffins come back to their cliffside burrows after a day of fishing. Watching these comical birds waddle across the grassy slopes was a true highlight of our trip. We also spotted Great Skuas, known as the “pirates of the seas,” aggressively chasing smaller birds to steal their catch.

A morning boat tour around Runde’s cliffs provided even closer views of these magnificent seabirds. European Shags, with their sleek, greenish-black plumage, perched on the rugged rock faces, while Common Murres, Razorbills, Norther Gannetts, Black-legged Kittiwake gathered in tight colonies, their calls filling the air.

Arctic Adventures: Crossing the Circle and Beyond

From Trondheim, we transitioned to the second leg of our journey—an Arctic cruise. As we crossed the Arctic Circle, we celebrated with fellow travelers while scanning the waters for pelagic birds. Sea eagles were a common sight, their powerful talons effortlessly snatching fish from the waves.

One of the most magical moments came when we entered the Raftsundet Passage past midnight. The golden hues of the midnight sun bathed the icy peaks, turning the landscape into something out of a dream.

Adult Greylag Goose with goslings. Photographed in Norway by Kakul Paul, author at The Green Ogre
Adult Greylag Goose with goslings
Male Eurasian Wigeon in Norway photographed by Kakul Paul, author at The Green Ogre
The male Wigeon shows off its breeding colours
Red-throated Loon in Norway, photographed by Kakul Paul, author at The Green Ogre
The attractive Red-throated Loon
Ruff, photographed in Norway by Kakul Paul, author at The Green Ogre
The Ruff in his wedding suit is rather dandy

Disembarking in Tromsø, we explored Prestvannet Lake, a haven for Arctic bird species. Among the highlights were Red-throated Loons, Ruff, and Eurasian Wigeons—each in their striking breeding plumage.

Svalbard: A Frozen Wilderness Full of Life

The final leg of our journey took us to Svalbard, the high Arctic wilderness teeming with wildlife. Despite sub-zero temperatures, birding here was extraordinary. We spotted Pink-footed Geese, King Eiders, Barnacle Geese, and even the rare Black Guillemot.

A male King Eider in Norway. Photographed by Kakul Paul, author at The Green Ogre
The gorgeous male King Eider
Snow Bunting, photographed in Norway by Kakul Paul, author at The Green Ogre
The dapper little Snow Bunting, the only breeding songbird in Svalbard

One particularly special sighting was the Snow Bunting, the only songbird that breeds in Svalbard. Its melodic call was a stark contrast to the otherwise silent Arctic landscape.

A herd of walruses in Norway. Photographed by Kakul Paul, author at The Green Ogre
A herd of walruses

Although we didn’t see a polar bear, we were fortunate enough to witness a herd of walruses up-close, their massive, blubbery bodies sprawled across the ice. Arctic foxes darted between the rocks, their thick white coats providing perfect camouflage. We also caught a glimpse of the Arctic Reindeers.

Farewell, Norway – Until Next Time!

As we wrapped up our adventure and returned to Oslo, we made one final stop at a nearby lake, where Mute Swans and Hooded Crows bid us farewell.

Norway had given us everything we had hoped for and more—dramatic landscapes, a dazzling array of bird species, and encounters with Arctic wildlife that will stay with us forever. For those considering a birding and nature adventure, this country is an absolute must-visit.

If you’d like to see a detailed list of all the birds we encountered during this trip, check out my eBird trip report here.


Discover more of Kakul’s photographs on Instagram

Author

  • Kakul Paul, birder and photographer, is an author at The Green Ogre

    An avid birder and photographer, Kakul Paul can be seen patiently waiting beside wetlands or staring into treetops. Starting off as a nature and landscape photographer, she soon found comfort in documenting birds. She loves travelling and exploring new places that bring her close to raw nature. In her day job, she is an Analytics consultant. She is based in Bangalore.

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