Jennifer Nandi’s book tour takes her to the Kashmir Valley, where she stays at Nadis, a lovely boutique hotel not far from Dachigam, home of the Hangul
I was riding the wave of success my newly published book had achieved. It was incredibly rewarding. My hard work and dedication were paying off. My efforts were being recognised and celebrated. But it was not all easy going.
In the week that I was at Nadis, a beautiful boutique hotel in Kashmir with charming architecture, blending traditional Kashmiri design with modern comforts, I experienced an ambience of elegance and warmth. Nestled in the breathtaking landscapes of Kashmir, my stay at the boutique hotel was a serene retreat where, each morning, I awoke to stunning views of snow-capped mountains. The personalised service, combined with exquisite local cuisine, made my experience truly unforgettable. Well-appointed rooms and beautiful gardens provided the perfect blend of tranquillity and luxury.
Nadis – a jewel in Kashmir
The owner of the boutique hotel is Yaser Shaw, an extraordinary man whose soul is securely invested in the beauty of its craft – the lengthy process of weaving shawls. He is the fifth generation to continue to preserve this age-old Kashmiri art, the skill having been passed down from generation to generation. Yaser most graciously hosted me for my book-reading event. Moreover, Nadis is close to Dachigam, the national park where the Hangul deer resides.
As soon as I arrived at Nadis, the dynamic and staggeringly beautiful manager Amara Reshi had prepared a Himalayan trout lunch for me. Soon after, Yaser took me on a 3-hour hike. He also ensured I hiked each morning at dawn. The hikes through the forest were a true immersion in nature, a perfect opportunity for forest bathing.
The path was a rugged trail of gravel stones and slush, making each step a mindful connection with the earth. I was hoping to spot a bear where the dense canopy above filtered sunlight into soft, dappled patches on the forest floor. As I peered into spiders’ webs, examined fallen fruit, gently touched the lichen on the barks of trees, I breathed in the earthy scent of moss and damp leaves, inviting deep, refreshing breaths. In the crisp air the Indian Blue Robin trilled out its pretty melody. And the Brownish-flanked Bush Warbler belied its small size with its very loud call. The river was always there, flowing with great force as though it were in a hurry.
The walks through Dachigam bathed me. More often than not, forest guides who had once trekked with me, stopped to chat. This was not an intrusion, rather it felt like a further immersion in nature as I experienced a profound emotional resonance. People matter.
The Mughal Gardens, with their stunning blend of Persian, Islamic, and Indian landscape traditions, are characterised by their meticulous symmetry, flowing water channels, manicured lawns, and fragrant flowerbeds. The Harwan Gardens were across the road from Nadis. But I asked to be taken on a challenging trek along a canal. There would be forktails feeding off insects along the canal. Most probably they’d have white spotting on their backs. This characteristic separates the Spotted Forktail from all other of their species. The bird loves well-shaded forest steams and, because of its long tail and pied coloration, is easy to see. There would be other birds in the scrub, but this one is a favourite!
I was warned that the ground was uneven. That was an understatement. I had to carefully negotiate a rugged trail of gravel, large boulders, and slush. Thick mud and slippery stones demanded a steady balance. But I had worked on all such requisites at the gym. Now it was time to put the skills to work.
Making the great leap!
The path deteriorated, forcing us downhill to cross a stream that I had remembered was rather placid but the recent rains had altered the terrain considerably. I ploughed through the bramble bushes in this untouched wilderness. The usually placid stream that would allow us to cross comfortably using stepping stones was now rough and turbulent. I cast around for a more convenient spot for me to cross. I had the shortest legs in the group and I was the oldest by almost three decades!
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I chose a large rock that from a distance, looked temptingly close to the opposite side which was slushy and slippery. But all I had to do was jump. I was used to this. The question of to jump or not to jump is the essence of human choice. I seem to be making a practice of it. A leap into the unknown. The act of jumping is my bold embrace of uncertainty. And I have learned that there’s great power in uncertainty. Fear is eclipsed. In the leap I found the courage to transcend the familiar. Back at the hotel, with a profound sense of peace and connection to the natural world, I found that I had more energy than usual and was certainly up to the book event that evening.
Debating what colours to wear, on a whim I chose pink over yellow only to see that my instincts had served me well. Pink was the colour of Nadis. Its cushions, drapes, linen, everything. I was “in the pink”! All was good. The world was good.
Or was it? Less than 700 kilometres away, my other world was slowly unravelling.
Read an excerpt from No Half Measures by Jennifer Nandi. Have you read the previous episodes in her book tour diary – Ink On The Move?
