Encounter: Brown Headed Gulls in the City of Light

One does not usually associate birding with Varanasi’s riverfront. This ancient and holy city, which is amongst the oldest continuously inhabited places on earth, is crowded, filthy, crassly commercial, oozes religiosity, garishly dressed up, loud, endlessly fascinating, photogenic, friendly, unpretentious and very often sublimely beautiful — even spiritual. Bird life…

Encounter: Blue Whistling Thrush

Relatively dowdy, screechy and less musical than its cousin, the Malabar Whistling Thrush of the Western Ghats, the Blue Whistling Thrush is nonetheless a character.  To reach any destination in the Himalaya — from anywhere that you may venture to do so — you must first impatiently transect the purgatory…