Osama is dead, but will the cranes fly again?

Now that Osama bin Laden is dead, will America allow Afghanistan to lick its wounds and restore its natural heritage?  In India, the wintering Siberian Crane has been missing in action for nearly a decade Afghanistan has always suffered for its place on the map. For millennia, before traders discovered the Silk Route across the Hindu Kush mountains through the Khyber Pass into the riparian plains of the Punjab, before the armies of invaders from Persia thundered into the Indian subcontinent, and before Russians and Americans overran the land in pursuit of mercenary friends-turned-foes, Siberian Cranes flew unmolested over these … Continue reading Osama is dead, but will the cranes fly again?

On the wing – Whiskered Tern unloads excess baggage

Pooping on the fly — a tern for the worse, or the ideal weight-loss solution? In flight, a Whiskered Tern (Chlidonias hybridus) unloads extra baggage by leaving a trail of guano. Defecation in flight probably helps optimise body mass for energy-efficient flight, especially after a bird has recently fed.  Whiskered Terns may be seen well inland over large water bodies as well as along coasts, estuaries and backwaters. They are strong fliers, with their pointed wing-flaps providing considerable thrust. They twist and turn in flight, changing direction randomly and sweep into the water to emerge with unsuspecting fish, amphibians, crustaceans … Continue reading On the wing – Whiskered Tern unloads excess baggage

From Madurai to Mount Kailas, a pilgrim’s puzzling progress

A chance find in a Pondicherry flea market points to an unknown Tamil Nadu pilgrim party’s mysterious journey to the base of Mount Kailas in 1948, only two years after Heinrich Harrer arrived in Lhasa Last Sunday, as I am prone to do on weekends, I paid a visit to the flea shops on the East Coast Road in Pondicherry. These shops, which usually offer a motley collection of old stuff – terracotta figurines, calendars and posters, furniture, French porcelain, old black-and-white photographs, books and the usual bric-à-brac, sometimes throw up a surprise. Rummaging through an old tin trunk full … Continue reading From Madurai to Mount Kailas, a pilgrim’s puzzling progress

Audubon’s birds – poetry on canvas

In Audubon’s time the Passenger Pigeon and the Carolina Parakeet had not yet become America’s most celebrated (and lamented) extinctions… Audubon’s painting of the Ivory-billed Woodpecker, which was considered extinct until 2006 when it was reportedly rediscovered (source: Wikimedia Commons) As Google has already informed you, today is the 226th birth anniversary of John James Audubon, the French-American ornithologist, naturalist and painter. In Audubon’s time the Passenger Pigeon (Ectopistes migratorius) and the Carolina Parakeet (Conuropsis carolinensis) had not yet become America’s most celebrated extinctions. Both species were abundant. The story went that migrating flocks of passenger pigeons darkened the sky … Continue reading Audubon’s birds – poetry on canvas

Raptor Friday: The Shaheen Falcon

Two Ogres compare notes about their respective sightings of a fast-flying falcon. Was that a Peregrine or a Shaheen? Sandy: I saw it fly at a height where it looked like a fast-moving orange-and-black speck in the sky. The wing-flapping wasn’t anywhere near furious, but every flap propelled it further ahead with amazing thrust. I managed a shot, and later identified it as a Shaheen Falcon (Falco peregrinus peregrinator). Since then I have enjoyed multiple sightings of the bird as it zipped past or perched on trees high up with no intention of leaving the place for a long time. Arun: There is … Continue reading Raptor Friday: The Shaheen Falcon

The next time you see a leopard in your town…

If you took the city of Tokyo and turned it upside down and shook it you would be amazed at the animals that fall out: badgers, wolves, boa constrictors, crocodiles, ostriches, baboons, capybaras, wild boars, leopards, manatees, ruminants, in untold numbers. There is no doubt in my mind that feral giraffes and feral hippos have been living in Tokyo for generations without seeing a soul.”  – Yann Martel, Life of Pi  As the horrendous impact of the earthquake that hit Japan last month has shown, “shaking” a city is none too far-fetched an image. But when Martel wrote these lines, … Continue reading The next time you see a leopard in your town…

Pichavaram – the great mangrove forest of Tamil Nadu

Few people know (or care) that this favourite locale of filmmakers is a spectacular mangrove ecosystem throbbing with life The mangrove forests of Pichavaram comprise an intriguing ecosystem Tickets in hand, negotiations with the boatman closed, we should have been on the boat, headed for our first visit to a mangrove ecosystem. But all we could do was to gaze longingly at the dense green clumps across a vast expanse of the lagoon. The boat that was to carry us there was moored to the shore covered in blue tarpaulin. A sudden squall was depositing even more rain on the … Continue reading Pichavaram – the great mangrove forest of Tamil Nadu

Odisha Diary: Guideless and guileless in Bhitarkanika

When the local bird guide of two decades vintage turns out to be a shimmering dud, Jennifer Nandi takes control of the rest of her birding trip at Bhitarkanika Early morning at Bhitarkanika – eagles in the trees harry the waterfowl Birding guides are, at the best of times, difficult to come by. Our unequivocal request directed at the ground operators at Odisha for an able birding guide with a real sense of the park and its bird life was received with understanding. When time is at a premium, it’s essential to have an efficient bird watching strategy. This is … Continue reading Odisha Diary: Guideless and guileless in Bhitarkanika

When Stumpy almost cost us the World Cup!

Never mix cricket and a jungle adventure, the World Cup’s mascot seemed to tell us! Setting out on the bird trail Lopsided finances can crush a budget birding trip when one member of the party considers opting out. Harder still when the reason for his abandonment of our greater purpose is to watch a cricket match. Well, we know retrospectively that this was no ordinary game. And we know who won. But between the watching and the winning lies a tale. Cellular signals don’t trouble the Kulgi Nature Camp in Dandeli-Anshi Tiger Reserve. Not even BSNL — well, not unless … Continue reading When Stumpy almost cost us the World Cup!

Odisha Diary: Onward to Bhitarkanika

Jennifer Nandi‘s sojourn in Odisha begins with a ride through the Buddhist ruins at Udayagiri and Ratnagiri  Some serious packing after dinner leaves the night in tatters – yet, we are ready to leave the hotel at 5.30 in the morning to catch our flight to Bhubaneshwar. Sushanto, the epitome of courtesy, is our guide for the Orissa (officially renamed Odisha in November 2010) segment of our journey. He meets us at the airport, with welcoming gestures and smiles, brimming with keen anticipation and excitement at the next 10 days that we must all spend together. We settle in for the … Continue reading Odisha Diary: Onward to Bhitarkanika